Week 1 blog - Estee Laundry and Beauty’s second wave of accountability culture

 

Week 1 blog - Estée Laundry and Beauty’s second wave of accountability culture

Estee Laundry and beauty’s second wave of accountability culture | Dazed

The article from Dazed, "Estée Laundry and Beauty's Second Wave of Accountability Culture", arrived at a crucial moment for the beauty industry. Over the years, brands have made progress in being more inclusive, but the conversation surrounding these topics seems to have quietened. The article explored the journey of Estée Laundry, a once-anonymous Instagram account that shook the industry by calling out its numerous shortcomings.

Back in 2018, Estée Laundry made headlines by exposing the hypocrisy and unethical practices that surround the beauty world. Moving on to 2023, the account had gone silent, calling burnout and frustration with the nature of “call-out culture.” Now in 2025, Estée Laundry has returned with a fresh approach that feels more reflective and needed than ever before.

Despite progress, there has been a dip in diversity and inclusivity within the beauty industry. Foundation shades are becoming more limited and many campaigns are lacking in representation compared to previous years. Estée Laundry's return serves as a reminder that these issues are still relevant and that the demand for accountability is far from over.

Dazed shows that Estée Laundry is still one of the only independent voices that are willing to challenge and advocate for necessary changes. Without people like them, the beauty industry risks self-regulation that rarely leads to significant change.

The article shares some essential statistics: 45% of Gen Z and 50% of Millennials claim they would stop supporting brands that lack inclusivity or ethical practices. This statistic shows the importance of honesty, which is what Estée Laundry offers. By calling out negative behaviour and uplifting those who take positive steps, they help consumers to make informed, ethical choices.

Dazed isn't just sending out gossip, it is a wake-up call. The industry is at risk of relapsing at a time when diversity advocacy seems to have quieted. Watchdogs like Estée Laundry remind us that inclusivity isn’t a trend but an ongoing responsibility.

The article creates a conversation about representation and inclusivity, which in an ideal world should be a given, not a privilege. However, brands continue to fall short in areas such as diversity in shade ranges, campaign representation, and leadership diversity.

Some argue that the need for watchdogs like Estée Laundry feels outdated, claiming that the industry has improved thanks to social media and consumer awareness holding brands accountable. After all, many companies now advertise themselves as inclusive, sustainable, and ethical.

On the other hand, the piece argues that despite the public efforts and claims of progress, many hidden issues still persist. Brands often tokenise diversity rather than embracing it. Claims of sustainability are sometimes exposed as mere greenwashing. When left unchecked, companies inevitably revert to prioritising their image and profits over genuine change.

Overall group discussion

In our group discussion, we looked into the article and the challenges of inclusivity and diversity within the beauty industry. Despite social awareness, many brands still struggle to offer a big enough shade range or cater to various people. We collectively agreed that all beauty brands need to stock a full range of skin tones, from the lightest to the deepest. Brands like Fenty Beauty, Maybelline, and Haus Labs show inclusivity with their wide shade ranges, showing that catering to diverse consumers boosts both appeal and success. Many affordable brands now provide broader shade ranges compared to some high-end brands, showing that inclusivity is led by brand values more than price points.
Several brands appear to be stuck in outdated practices, offering limited product ranges that cater to a narrow audience. We pointed out Estee Lauder as a prime example of a brand that has historically targeted middle-aged white women, showing little willingness to adapt over the years. This one approach not only limits potential clientele but also distances younger consumers who are eager for representation. A few brands have taken constructive steps in response to critiques. For example, TIRTIR was initially criticised for its limited shade range but later expanded its line to include a more diverse range, showing the positive change possible when brands listen to their audience. It’s hard to see a decline in diverse representation in marketing, as many brands revert to showcasing mainly young, slim, white women with flawless skin. This lack of diversity in campaigns reinforces narrow beauty ideals, excluding many consumers. Real inclusivity should involve not only accessible products but also an accurate representation of all identities, body types, and skin tones in promotional materials. The discussion showed that embracing inclusivity and diversity should be a baseline expectation for the beauty industry. Brands that neglect these principles risk losing relevance and consumer trust, while those committed to genuine inclusiveness in both product offerings and advertising are likely to succeed. The beauty industry must align with society's progress, making sure everyone feels seen, represented, and valued. The revival of Estée Laundry shows how quickly progress can fall when the public’s focus shifts to different topics. Their commitment to thoughtful accountability, moving beyond quick judgments to meaningful dialogue about inclusive practices, aligns with what the industry desperately needs right now. Through the discussions about the article, it’s shown that brands often talk about diversity without genuinely delivering on their promises. Shade ranges are becoming shorter, and marketing is becoming less inclusive once again, despite prior advances. Inclusivity is not just about product offerings but also about visibility, respect, and the genuine feeling of being acknowledged. Real change occurs when companies heed feedback and adjust accordingly. In contrast, brands that cling to outdated practices risk their relevance in an increasingly aware and diverse market.